Paris rounds off what is a pretty fashionable start to the year. After London and Milan, the French capital shares its take on menswear, before quickly delving into the world of Haute Couture straight after. For the AW17, Paris fell in step with the other cities to show a more pared down side to menswear, easier to wear and hanging loose.
Here, we’ve chosen our favourite trends to look out for in AW17.
The old adage of “be there, or be square” is now moot, as squares became the standout pattern at PFWM. Japanese brand Facetasm showed it in blue check, layering printed shirts underneath jackets in the same pattern and colour. French label Givenchy also showed blue and black square prints on tops and collars. Belgian designer Dries Van Noten used the square in red gridding over V-neck sweaters, while Ami Alexandre Mattussi did it in white over 90s vibe jumpers.
Remember in the 80s and early 00s when garments were basically advertisements? Well, those days are back again, as PFWM showed throughout the AW17 showcase. And now it’s not just Vetements plastering logos all over their collections. Classic luxury label Louis Vuitton partnered with trendy brand Supreme to show bags emblazoned in red and white. Balenciaga imitated the campaign aesthetics of former presidential candidate Bernie Sanders, with primary blue in white writing.
Designers from London to Paris untucked their shirts, layered carelessly and let them hang loosely over the shoulders. The look was epitomised by Yohji Yamamoto, who dropped sleeves, piled layers of shirts and jumpers and jackets and coats, all at the same time. Comme des Garcons Homme Plus also let it all hang, with swinging culottes and formal trousers cut harem style. This trend was seen all over London as designers usurped proportions.
In a surprising twist of events, the anorak turned out to be one of the heroes of PFWM. The humble staple of practical decent was worn over formal suits, like the blue velvet numbers of Berluti in Haider Ackermann’s debut for the brand. A similar vibe was seen at Lemaire, with blue suits (again) underneath brown raincoats. Elsewhere, the likes of Valentino and Lanvin showed the anorak as daywear, with relaxed trousers, cable jumpers and trainers.