When it comes to fashion, London is renowned the world over for its creativity, eccentricity and talent. Since the city launched a Fashion Week just for menswear in 2012, it has pushed the boundaries, broken the rules and abandoned its traditions year upon year. This January, the newly rebranded London Fashion Week Men’s hit the capital to showcase its Autumn/Winter offerings.
Here, we pick our favourite trends and the designers doing it best.
The super-skinny fit has restricted menswear (and our leg movements) for many seasons. Now, designers are forgoing razor sharp tailoring and taught fabrics in favour of generous sizing, voluminous materials and playful cuts. For AW17, proportions are all over the place. At Casely-Hayford (pictured), a classic blue shirt hung wide and cropped, coats came in gargantuan sizes and trousers billowed, reminiscent of early 00s skater jeans. Craig Green, Astrid Anderson and Martine Rose also jumped on the bandwagon and toyed with proportions and shapes.
The AW17 offering at LFWM was bolder than ever before in its approach to fabrics and textures. Designers developed and embellished traditional fabrics, such as painted denim at J.W.Anderson, velvets and silks at Edward Crutchley and shiny boiled wools at E Tautz. London designer duo Agi & Sam (pictured) debuted a collection packed with texture, from the soft leather trousers to dense wools and shredded surfaces.
Rave New World
The designers at LFWM shirked the tradition of darker colours for the AW season, instead opting for the brightest and boldest fluorescents they could find. Christopher Shannon, Sibling and Liam Hodges all delivered collections that looked as if they’d been swiped over with a highlighter. At Topman Design (pictured), there were shocking pink puffed tracksuits, luminous green belted overcoats and utility jackets in yellow and orange.
Camouflage at Large
The military influence can always be felt in menswear. Most recently, it was dress military accents like shiny buttons and close tailoring. For AW17, the approach is more artillery. Camouflage is back in a big way (not that it ever really goes away). Nigel Cabourn delivered it in the traditional green, brown and black print from head to toe, while Maharishi offered a more sophisticated, bleached take on the pattern. Christopher Raeburn (pictured) used it to add accents to simpler garments and in his accessories, and also incorporated the fluorescent trend for good measure.
Roll Up Roll Up
The roll neck trend shows no sign of unfurling. AW17 sees the sartorial staple sticking around, but pushed to further extremes. J.W.Anderson worked it into his oversized knitted jumpers while Alex Mullins added layers to the rolls around the neck. Oliver Spencer (pictured) used the roll neck as a base, building a look on top of it but always as a starting point. This approach is more wearable and has greater style longevity.